ALONG COMES MARY

I’ve found a common theme over the years with winemakers. Many discovered winemaking as an outlet from a job that is much more strenuous. Yet given that winemaking is a science, it’s usually a match made in heaven (or a vineyard) for detail-oriented, hard-working people. Example? How about Dr. Tom Kenefick, a neurosurgeon who also founded Napa Valley’s Kenefick Ranch?

I was introduced to the winery through a dear colleague I made during a visit to Roswell, Georgia. She knows me well and that I love stories of people doing a 180 on their life when the passion of wine pours a glass. Kenefick Ranch is a great example.  

It’s 1970 and Dr. Kenefick is a San Francisco neurosurgeon. Eight years after a life-changing visit to California’s Wine Country (Napa Valley) he bought a 250-acre ranch in Calistoga that would become Kenefick Ranch.  The property looked out onto a beautiful valley set within two mountain ranges. Over half of the land was planted with old Italian varietals that had been head-pruned and dry-farmed.

Kenefick Ranch in Napa Valley

Despite his thriving medical career, he realized his dreams were also at the ranch. With a longstanding interest in wines, particularly Bordeaux varietals, he began to pursue his new passion for wine growing. He had no idea what a great viticulture decision he had made. 

With his scientific eye thanks to med school, it proved handy in the vineyard. However, he continued honing his skills by taking night classes in viticulture. In between grape growing and winemaking, he continued to stay in the neurosurgery field. 

A Kenefick Family Affair

Inevitably, it became a family affair. Dr. Kenefick brought his two children, Caitlin and Chris, to the ranch. Caitlin recalls the vineyard as a pivotal part of her formative years. “We went to the ranch every single weekend,” she remembers. “I watched my dad build this property from the ground up. He was involved in every detail and was extremely hands-on. If the temperature went below freezing and an alarm went off in the middle of the night, he’d go out to turn on the wind machines to keep the vines warm – and that was after all working all week in a stressful job. His passion for this place has turned a special piece of land into a phenomenal vineyard.”

From 2016 to 2021, Chris focused on national sales while learning all aspects of the business on both the vineyard and winery side. In 2021, after the passing of Dr. Kenefick, he took over as CEO, Second Generation Proprietor of Kenefick Ranch Vineyard and Winery.

Tom lived on the ranch and his hands-on approach drove every aspect of the vineyard operation. He was consistently in the vineyard – inspecting the vines, learning, refining, and improving the process up to his final days. You can taste the love in the wine. 

It Takes a Village

Along with the Keneficks, the Garcia Family has also played an important role over the years. In 1985. Gus Garcia began working for the ranch and moved onto the land the following decade. Ten Garcia men continue to work and live at Kenefick. Besides the heart and soul they dedicate to the vineyard, they contribute to the ranch’s annual harvest parties and celebrations. 

Gus and his son, Leon, are the ultimate jack-of-all-trades who keep the property running smoothly. This includes overseeing a crew of 11 who can hand-pick over 500 tons of grapes each harvest. It’s a tight-knit operation and it shows in the glass. 

In 2007, Kent Jarman joined Kenefick as the ranch’s winemaker. Kent was immediately drawn to the opportunity to make wine with Kenefick Ranch. “It’s very enticing to work with estate-owned vineyards,” he says. “It allows flexibility, to have total control of the farming, and to be extremely committed to the highest quality.” He also loves the diversity of the property’s terroir. “Small vineyards can be very one-dimensional,” he explains. “Here we have a rich variety of soil profiles and microclimates. It enables us to create an overall complex product with many different characteristics from unique sites on the estate.”

Cheers to a Cab

I honestly don’t prefer red or white wine. I have my favorites with both. When it comes to red, we like to go bolder. We decided to try Kenefick’s 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Chris’s Cuvee. Under 1,000 cases were produced (580). It’s a balanced blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon 12% Petit Verdot 6% Cabernet Franc. 

We had plans to save it for a “fancy dinner” but, well, a toddler got in our way. We chose to enjoy it with steak and chicken tacos. Honestly? It elevated a “simple” meal to greater lengths. The dark fruit notes added a subtle brightness and the oak finish made the notes linger. I tasted a lot of blackberry and even a hint of fig. It’s said to age gracefully for 15-20 years. Perhaps we should get a bottle to keep for Mabel’s graduation or 21st birthday?

Learn more and purchase your own bottle of Kenefick Ranch Wine HERE.